Showing posts with label adventures. Show all posts
Showing posts with label adventures. Show all posts

Monday, 17 February 2014

Love Letter from... Sutton Hoo

The lonely landscape of Sutton Hoo

As I mentioned back in January, my New Year's Resolution this year is to make a trip out of London once a month. My January excursion was to Sussex and February took me to Suffolk. This excursion actually took place several weeks ago on the 1st of February, I was that excited for the next installment of my resolution...

I've never explored Suffolk before, despite it being so close to London and despite my boss telling me repeatedly of the charms of the county (... a slight prejudice based on the fact he was born there). Well, I made my boss doubly pleased when I announced this excursion because I was bound for Sutton Hoo. My boss is an archaeologists by training and Sutton Hoo is the site of what is probably England's most momentous archaeological find ever - an Anglo Saxon ship burial full of exquisite treasures.

Burial mound and Tranmer House, the manor house on the property

I caught the train to Melton Station, meeting a friend who was coming from Cambridge. From Melton, it was a reasonably short walk to the property. When we got there, we first had a look around the exhibition, which told us all about the Anglo Saxons (well, as much as anyone knows...), the finds at Sutton Hoo and the excavation. The dig took place in the 1930s (right before the outbreak of war) so there were lots of excellent photographs of men in flat caps, smoking pipes as they dug about, unearthing priceless treasures...

Flat caps, smoking pipes and the remains of an Anglo Saxon boat,
as seen in 1939 (Image source)

We dressed up in Anglo Saxon garb (apparently we're roughly the same size as 10-year-old children, but 6-year-olds were too much of a squeeze), admired some reproductions of the original treasures, and were shocked by some lewd riddles, before moving on for a turn about the estate.



Cloud spotting... Smudges of white paint in the sky...

We were delighted to stumble across a carpet of snow drops - the first floral signs of spring, surely brought out by the fine sunshine of the day.

Snow drops!

I was amused by the farm animals, which were a slightly different offering to the usual cows and sheep. We got these wild looking ram things and some pigs off in the distance...

Wooly ram-type animals...

Pigs...

After we'd had enough walking and being buffeted by the high winds, we made our way into Tranmer House. This was the early nineteenth-century residence of Edith Pretty, who lived on the estate and commissioned Basil Brown to undertake the archaeological investigations of the burial mounds in 1939.

Tranmer House, across a chasm of sorts

The drawing room was all set up for lounging about in, with a woman playing classic jazz age tunes on the piano, games set out on a table and 1920s-30s reading in the form of Ideal Home magazine and books such as Don't for Dancers. We watched the wild winds out the window for a while and then took a seat by the fireplace to leaf through some of the literature. Our only disappointment was that we had to leave and walk back to a modern cafe to partake of tea and cake (a requisite of any National Trust outing). We would have preferred to take tea in the drawing room... or better yet, port, brandy or sherry.

A sneaky snap taken by my friend... I'm sure Mrs Pretty never lounged about in such a casual manner...

Once our day was done at Sutton Hoo, we wandered back along the River Deben to Woodbridge for a pint and a pub meal, enjoying a fine sunset along the way.



All in all, a successful February outing, particularly as it was coincidentally and perfectly timed for a beautiful sunny day. I can also highly recommend Sutton Hoo as one of those few National Trust properties that are dead easy to get to by public transport. I feel I may well return again. And shall I take a hip flask next time, so I can enjoy that drink in the drawing room?

Friday, 4 October 2013

A Hidden Street Off Piccadilly

Albany's Ropewalk in 1903 - London' s most secret and most fabulous street (Image source)

Algernon:  Your name isn’t Jack at all; it is Ernest.
Jack:          It isn’t Ernest; it’s Jack.
Algernon: You have always told me it was Ernest. I have introduced you to everyone as Ernest. You answer to the name of Ernest. You look as if your name was Ernest. You are the most earnest-looking person I ever saw in my life. It is perfectly absurd your saying that your name isn’t Ernest. It’s on your cards. Here is one of them: (Reading: ) ‘Mr Ernest Worthing, B4, The Albany, W.’


So runs an exchange from Oscar Wilde's classic play, The Importance of Being Earnest. But what is this address, The Albany, of which they speak? Well, it was in Wilde's day, and remains today, just possibly the finest address in London, located right off Piccadilly:


Oh wait, you don't see it marked on the standard street map? That's because it's utterly exclusive. I assure you it exists but you can't always rely on maps: you just need to know it's there. Look again, at this proper old map. It's right there between Sackville Street and Burlington House (or the Royal Academy):

1851 map of London, showing Albany nestled in between Piccadilly, Regent Street and Burlington House

The Albany - or Albany, depending on when you are speaking and how fashionable you are (now, at the beginning of the 21st century, 'Albany', without the definitive article, is de rigeur) - is a series of gentlemen's apartments opening off a private, covered street right in the heart of Mayfair. Albany was created in 1802-03 by the architect Henry Holland, who also built Carlton House, a ridiculously exuberant mansion for the decadent Prince Regent (now sadly demolished). To access the flats (or 'sets', as they are correctly known) of Albany, one passes through what was once Melbourne House, built by the architect Sir William Chambers in 1771-74. Holland also converted this into sets as part of his overall scheme for what is quite possibly the earliest ever example of, let's admit it, bachelor pads - albeit it very, very classy ones.

c.1830 etching of Albany Courtyard by John Shepherd (Image source) 

Last week, my colleagues and I were granted exclusive access to Albany. We got to stroll in a leisurely fashion down the Ropewalk (as the covered street is known), stop in the tranquil gardens and enjoy a drink with one of the residents in his beautifully proportioned, comfortably sized, perfectly maintained set... Is it a little bit obvious to say that I could definitely live there? Oh, and women are allowed to these days, for the record. Although, I have to confess that the traditionalist/misogynist in me does kind of prefer the idea of some of my more stylish male friends living there to me personally doing so... But the other part of me says 'screw tradition - give me a set!'

A fine example of a room in one of the sets (Image source)

As you may well imagine, all sorts of fabulous and famous people have lived at this fabulous and famous address, from poet, Lord Byron, to author, Aldous Huxley, from architect of the British Museum, Robert Smirke, to prime minister, William Gladstone. As a self-confessed Oscar Wilde groupie, however, it is still the fact that Albany appears in Earnest that tickles my fancy most. And so, it was with great pleasure that a very dear friend of mine (the perfect Algy) and myself (a questionable Jack) regaled our gathered workmates with a reading from the play at twilight in the garden of the one and only Albany, concluding with the following confession:

Jack:         When one is placed in the position of guardian one has to adopt a very high moral tone on all subjects. It’s one's duty to do so. And as a high moral tone can hardly be said to conduce very much to either one’s health or one’s happiness if carried to excess, in order to get up to town I have always pretended to have a younger brother of the name of Ernest, who lives in the Albany, and gets into the most dreadful scrapes. 

Our host and the porter were much amused and invited us back for another recital some other time. I do hope that they meant it...

Our stage: one of the gardens at Albany (Image source)


Saturday, 14 September 2013

Love Letter from... Chicago!



Brrr. Autumn seems to have arrived here in London. How strange to think that, less than two weeks ago, I was here:


Oak Street Beach in Chicago, on the shores of Lake Michigan, drying in the sun after a morning dip. Check out the hair - they don't call this The Windy City for nothing.

I absolutely fell in love with Chicago in the few short days I was there. I ended up going as I was in the States for a friend's wedding in Boston and I've wanted to go to Chicago for some time now. I was a bit nervous that it wouldn't live up to my hopes but it surpassed them. It had a perfect city feel with a fascinating mix of architecture, a great buzz, a beautiful location on the lake, green spaces, wide streets, and such friendly people. It did really feel like 'my kind of town', in the words of Frank Sinatra. Like all my favourite cities, it didn't feel frozen in some past period, nor completely new. You could feel and see the history but it felt like it is still alive and changing, still exciting and full of energy. As an architecture geek, I particularly loved all the new buildings butting up against the old. (And I highly recommend the architectural boat tour, run by the Chicago Architectural Foundation, for a great run down of it all.)

Here's just a few shots from my wanderings... There's quite a few here, and yet it's still only a small selection from the many taken...

Bam! Architectural amazingness overload!

The Wrigley Building! (Frank Sinatra sings about this...)










Down at the beach in the evening, I was amused watching the cops, watching the waves 


I spent most of my time in the centre, which is where I was staying, but also managed to get out to Wicker Park, which is one of the inner suburbs of the city. I browsed some of the various vintage/thrift stores there, but wasn't really in the buying mood. I did snap some more pictures along the main street though.

'Don't fret': You're in Chicago, life's good here!




So that's my glimpse of Chicago. I did absolutely love it and didn't have nearly as much time as I would have liked there (only two full days, three nights). However, now I know that it's there and how amazing it is, I can always plan to go back one day, to see all the many places and things I missed this time around. Hopefully next time I will be able to take The Cat as well, as he wasn't able to make it this time (despite wanting to) and had to endure my excited telephone calls and messages as I explored and fell head over heels...

God bless you, Chicago, you beautiful city!

Tuesday, 3 September 2013

Happy Labor Day from Chicago!

Yes, I can legitimately wish you all a happy Labor Day (with no 'u' and all) because I am actually in Chicago right now! Yes, Chicago, Illinois, United States of America!

Image source

I'm sure you're dying to hear more but this will be my last post until I get back to London in a week's time. Until then, I'll just say that it's my kind of town, Chicago is!


Friday, 23 August 2013

Come Away, O Human Child!

Me at Glen-Car waterfall, Co. Sligo
Dress: Hand-me-down from my Mama
Cardigan: Gift from my Mama
Belt: Beyond Retro, London
Shoes: Jones Bootmaker

The Stolen Child
(W.B. Yeats)

Where dips the rocky highland
Of Sleuth Wood in the lake,
There lies a leafy island
Where flapping herons wake
The drowsy water rats;
There we've hid our faery vats,
Full of berrys
And of the reddest stolen cherries.
Come away, O human child!
To the waters and the wild
With a faery, hand in hand,
For the world's more full of weeping than you can understand.

Clew Bay, Westport, Co. Mayo

Where the wave of moonlight glosses
The dim gray sands with light,
Far off by furthest Rosses
We foot it all the night,
Weaving olden dances
Mingling hands and mingling glances
Till the moon has taken flight.
To and fro we leap
And chase the frothy bubbles,
While the world is full of troubles
And anxious in its sleep.
Come away, O human child!
To the waters and the wild
With a faery, hand in hand,
For the world's more full of weeping than you can understand.

My beautiful Mama, a true faery, at Glen-Car

Where the wandering water gushes
From the hills above Glen-Car, 
In pools among the rushes
That scarce could bathe a star, 
We seek for slumbering trout
And whispering in their ears
Give them unquiet dreams; 
Leaning softly out 
From ferns that drop their tears
Over the young streams.
Come away, O human child!
To the waters and the wild
With a faery, hand in hand,
For the world's more full of weeping than you can understand. 

Castlerock beach, Co. Derry

Away with us he's going,
The solemn-eyed:
He'll hear no more the lowing
Of the calves on the warm hillside
Or the kettle on the hob
Sing peace into his breast,
Or see the brown mice bob
Round and round the oatmeal chest.
For he comes, the human child, 
To the waters and the wild 
With a faery, hand in hand,
For the world's more full of weeping than he can understand.

Clew Bay wildflowers

A love letter from Ireland! I spent a few days there with my parents, discovering and falling in love with that wonderful wee island, from whence my father's family harks a few generations back. We stayed in my ancestors' wee town in County Donegal, but also explored parts of Mayo, Derry and Sligo, including a stop at the waterfalls mentioned in the Yeats poem above. It was all rather magical...

Sunday, 21 October 2012

Jillaroo Style

Embracing the Aussie lifestyle... and look


Jillaroo (noun): a young woman working on a sheep or cattle station to gain experience. 
Origin 1940s: from the given name, Jill, on the pattern of 'jackroo'.


Where do you begin with catching up, when you've been away from blogging for two months, having holidays in Australia, building up an arsenal of literally hundreds of photographs? 

Well, let's go for a stereotypically Aussie adventure, just for fun...

The background story: When I was spending a few weeks in Gippsland, in the south-eastern corner of Australia, I went up into what is known as the high country, the mountainous area towards the the top of the state of Victoria.

A classic High Country scene, in the town of Dargo

Curious High Country cows. Moooo?

In this beautiful part of the world, the 1980s film, The Man from Snowy River, was filmed. Based on a poem by the beloved Australian poet, 'Banjo' Patterson, it's a wonderfully dramatic love story in which a young man proves himself to the local landowner through his ability to capture and tame the infamous wild horses of the area, and in the process wins the heart and hand of the landowner's daughter.

(Image source)

Watching the film after my visit to the High Country, I decided I had to go horse riding. I wanted to be able to ride down the side of a rugged mountain in the fashion of the film's hero in the climactic scene...

The climactic chase scene - apparently the stunt was carried out by a local lad (Image source) 

And so, horse riding I went! It wasn't quite like the above picture but it was pretty amazing! We went on an hour-and-a-half trail, up and down the side of mountains, traversing rocky ground, splashing through creeks, avoiding wombat holes and trotting past grazing cattle.

Here's my faithful steed, Caddie. She was a bit shy...

Caddie and me


I wasn't able to take pictures on the ride, obviously, particularly as I was very busy concentrating on not falling off and adopting the right bouncing pattern when Caddie trotted and egging her on (I was given one of the more docile horses due to my complete lack of experience, but that meant she had the tendency to slow right down when I had to get her to keep up). But here's a view back down over the place where all the horses lived, Coonawarra Farm Resort, taken after our ride.

Coonawarra Farm Resort, in beautiful Gippsland High Country

Back on solid ground, I could focus on striking a few poses... Here I am, doing my best farm/bush girl look, with hat and all.

Jillaroo by the gate

Jillaroo by the creek

The surprisingly rich colours of the Australian landscape... even just in a few little rocks

(Pictures of me, and the view of Coonawarra, all taken by my lovely mother, who accompanied me bravely on the ride)