London Open House Countdown

UPDATE: Walthamstow Town Hall is now no longer participating in the Open House Weekend due to major electrical works taking place... So disappointing! But maybe next year...

I've just booked my volunteering slot for the London Open House Weekend, which is set to take place on 21-22 September this year. I will be offering my guiding services at...

Image source

Walthamstow Town Hall!

Isn't she a beauty??

If you fancy dropping by to say hello and to have a nosey around this awesome 1930s edifice, come down between 10am and noon on Saturday, 21 September.

And keep an eye out on the Open House website for the full programme, to be released in mid August.

UPDATE: Walthamstow Town Hall is now no longer participating in the Open House Weekend due to major electrical works taking place.

Love Letter from... Australia!

Detail of the facade of the Golden Sheath Hotel in Double Bay, Sydney

Dear readers! I have been absent from Blogland for weeks! I am now on holiday in Australia and, you may not be surprised to hear, have had little opportunity or patience for sitting at a computer. You may, however, be surprised to hear that I have been without my own camera since leaving England and have been reliant on friends for loans of cameras when I have been out and about, but that has limited my chances for going wild with photographing. Which is a shame because Sydney has so many lovely buildings! A giddy richness of early twentieth-century offerings, in particular...

I have now departed Sydney for the time being (though I will return there before going back to England) and am in the countryside of the state of Victoria. I have also now acquired a camera to use as and when I will. So, expect something more hopefully sometime at a point in the not-too-distant future.

Oscar's Tomb (A Case of Misguided Conservation)

Oscar Wilde's tomb, Père Lachaise Cemetery, Paris (Image source: Wikipedia)

As an architectural historian, a Romantic, and a lover of Oscar Wilde, I'm not quite sure how to react to reading an article that reports that Oscar's tomb in Père Lachaise Cemetery has been cleaned and restored, and is now going to be protected from devoted fans by a glass barrier.  I understand the desire to protect a memorial to a great writer (which also happens to be the work of a great sculptor, Jacob Epstein) but I am rather skeptical about the chosen approach.

The tomb is (or was, until the cleaning) famously covered in the lipstick of thousands of fans, who have been showing their devotion through kisses for years.  Although this is an absolutely fabulous tradition, it has apparently been causing damage to the stone, further exacerbated every time the stone is cleaned.  Now, any good conservation architect will tell you that, in many instances, dirt-ridden stones shouldn't be cleaned as the dirt may have formed a protective coat for the stone and exposing the surface again by cleaning will often make it more vulnerable to erosion.  Countless monuments and buildings have been irreversibly damaged due to this lack of understanding and the implementation of insensitive cleaning approaches.  Of course, the situation varies from stone to stone, and I can't say I know much about the effects of lipstick on whatever stone this tomb is made from.  Perhaps cleaning has been a strong necessity and was carefully and expertly carried out...  To me, however, it sounds as though they should never have attempted to clean off the kisses in the first place because that's where the problem really started.

The wonderful Oscar Wilde himself (Image source: Wikipedia)

I guess some may see the lipstick as being a vandalism of the work of Epstein, or a sign of disrespect to Oscar, as it has ultimately degraded his memorial.  But I have to disagree.  I'm a fan of Epstein's work generally, and therefore keen that any of his sculptures is treated appropriately and cared for.  But in this instance, in my view, the continued devotion of Oscar Wilde's fans more than 100 years after his death, represented by those lipstick marks, enhanced the impact of Epstein's bold, modern memorial, making it an even more fitting monument to a great decadent and aesthete.  Cleaning them off, and putting the tomb behind a barrier seems to be missing the point.

The visceral, impassioned, rebellious tradition created by Oscar's fans was beautiful and appropriate for the man.  My gut reaction is that an untouchable, pristine tomb which can be only politely viewed from behind a screen - I don't care how transparent or discreet it is - risks rendering the tomb clinical and cold.  

The Greatest Hotel in London

One of my favourite items in the small museum in the Savoy is the letter addressed to "The Greatest Hotel in London", on which the person at the mail sorting office has written "Try Savoy Hotel, WC2". And I think I would have suggested the same, as this really is a wonderful place.

Now, I know this is my THIRD post about the same evening but really, the other two posts weren't so much about the hotel and the loveliness on offer there.  I really wanted to dedicate a post to the place itself.

Unfortunately, I didn't take many photos of the hotel itself to share with you.  That's largely because it's one of those places that has an air about it that makes you want to just swan about, rather than desperately click away with a camera...  But not to fear, I borrowed some from their website instead, just to give you an idea of the place.

(c) Fairmont Hotels

(c) Fairmont Hotels

(c) Fairmont Hotels

(c) Fairmont Hotels

(c) Fairmont Hotels

The hotel was built in 1886-1889 for Richard D'Oyly Carte, while the forecourt was remodelled in the 1930s, hence the Art Deco elements.  The building is listed Grade II and, in the words of English Heritage's description, "D'Oyly Carte conceived his innovatory hotel on the latest American model, and exceptionally for its date, 70 bathrooms were provided as well as hydraulic lifts and electric light throughout.  It was, however, the brilliant management of Ceser Ritz combined with the talents of the great Escoffier that ensured the Savoy's success in the highest echelons of society, attracting to a hotel for the first time the nobility and the Prince of Wales' circle."  

One of the particularly American features of the hotel was the bar, which served drinks in the American style, i.e. mixed cocktails.  Apparently it was one of the first of its kind in London and is the longest-surviving.  Harry Craddock is probably the most well-known of its head barmen, having compiled The Savoy Cocktail Book in 1930 but another one to note is Ada Coleman, who worked there between 1903 and 1924.  Yes, you read correctly, Ada - she was a woman, which I think is just swell!

Along with the American Bar, there's now the Beaufort Bar which specialises in champagne and is located where the cabaret stage used to be, and the Thames Foyer which is light and airy and where you would go to indulge in afternoon tea.  And that's before you even more onto the restaurants...

On my recent visit, we went for the American Bar.  It was fabulous, particularly with the pianist playing all the classics and the charismatic waiters serving us.  Though I would highly recommend a visit if you're able to get there, I also thought I'd tell you about some of the cocktails and give you the recipes in case you fancied trying them for yourself at home.  Yes kids, DO try this at home!

First, the Champs Elysees:

The menu describes this as a complex, slightly herbal drink in the traditional martini style.  You will need:

1 1/2 oz brandy
1/2 oz Chartreuse Verte
Juice of 1/4 lemon
Dash Angostura bitters

Shake ingredients with ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.  You can also add 1/2 teaspoon of sugar if you don't like your drinks too bitter.

Next, the White Lady:

The glass unexpectedly and delightfully matched my dress...
Unfortunately, this means you can't actually see what the cocktail itself looks like.

This one apparently needs no description as the menu doesn't actually tell you what it involves!  All I knew was that it was the one famously associated with The Savoy, and that was enough to get me to order one up.  Fortunately, I was pleasantly surprised.  Surprised because I expected something creamy, pleasantly because I actually prefer non-creamy cocktails... and this one was damn tasty too.  If you want to try it for yourself, you will need:

2 oz dry gin
1/2 oz Cointreau
1/2 oz lemon juice
1 egg white

Again, just shake those ingredients with ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

If you still fancy more after those, you should get yourself the aforementioned Savoy Cocktail Book, which is still in print and available to buy.  As the introduction to the original edition described it:

Being in the main a complete compendium of the Cocktails, Rickeys, Daisies, Slings, Shrubs, Smashes, Fizzes, Juleps, Cobblers, Fixers and other Drinks, known and vastly appreciated in this year of grace 1930, with sundry notes of amusements and interest concerning them, together with Observations upon Wines and their special occasions.  Being in the particular an elucidation of the Manners and Customs of people of quality in a period of some equality.

Now, if that doesn't sell it to you, I don't know what will.

Chinchin!

Love letter from ... Nottingham (Vintage Shopping)

I'm back from a lazy weekend in Nottinghamshire, visiting friends and enjoying some country air and calm.  Despite not technically doing an awful lot whilst up there, I've still come back with lots to report.  But that could possibly say more about me than about anything else.

Anyway, first up, a report on vintage shopping in Nottingham!

First shopping stop was actually non-vintage but rather, new shoes! I spotted some lovely discounted patent red heels at Jones Bootmaker recently but didn't have time enough to try them on there and then. So, fresh off my train, I located the Nottingham branch. Once I found my size, there was not a moment's hesitation. Gorgeous, you must agree!

Here they are, tripping through the daisies on my feet
a few days later...

Next mission was to find my friend who was running her Ladybird and Sage craft stall at the Curiousity Haus market day in Sneinton.  Despite a bit of drizzle, this corner of Nottingham was brightened by some stalls with beautiful handmade products of all sorts.  I grabbed myself a pair of shiny red earrings to go with my new red shoes and perused a stall selling adorable baby shoes, etc, with a mind to buying a gift for some expectant friends.  Unfortunately, I'm not sure if it's a boy or girl yet and there were no unisex booties in the right size for the littlest babies.  Might have to buy online later...

After that pitstop, I tripped off to explore Nottingham's vintage shops.  My friend pointed me in the right kind of direction and I just went where my nose took me from there.  So I may have missed a few good 'uns but, coming out at the end of it all with three "new" items, I think I did fairly well!

First up: Oxfam on Goose Gate.  This is one of the Oxfam shops that has a carefully picked vintage-savvy collection.  Tried on a number of thing - one gorgeous French number, frustratingly just a tad too small.  But was compensated with a lovely green and blue tartan v-neck frock (which may have to wait until autumn) and a long, full skirt in a blue floral pattern on black background.

Wandered in and out of a few other places after this.  One nearby, also on Goose Gate, was lovely but I was going for cheap and cheerful and the items in there were more on the expensive side - especially, it seemed, the ones I particularly liked!  Was still worth a look, but unfortunately I can't remember the name to report back.  A bit rubbish of me!

After poking my head in a few more places, I began to get distracted by taking photos of buildings...

Nice solid 1930s down a quiet street

Dilapidated chic

Pretty wood carving, curves and glass

Curvy, curvy

Mad, rustic hodge-podge

Pretty stencilling and colour scheme

Then I turned around and discovered I was looking at the lovely Augustus on Pelham Street.  This sells a combination of true vintage clothes, vintage-inspired clothes, and fabulous vintage homewares, luggage, etc.  It also had possibly the best change rooms I have ever been in - according to the girl behind the counter, created using an old wardrobe.  I'm not sure of the protocol for photographing inside shops but snuck some pics inside the change room when I was hidden from view.  Sneaky...  But it gives you some idea of how they looked.  Also lets you see the lovely yellow dress I tried on which was unfortunately not at all good for my skin tone.  Was very sad to leave it behind...  I did walk out with the blue dress though, which has a darling fruity pattern.

Sneaking in the change rooms:
light-fitting and pictures

Change room mirror: yellows, blues and patterns

Delicious pattern and button

By this point, my shopping day was wrapping up.  I dropped into Cow on George Street but was a little disappointed.  Too many racks of early 90s floral dresses for my liking!  I did try on a couple of items but none worked for me.  Maybe a good thing considering I'd already managed one pair of new shoes, one pair of earrings, two dresses and one skirt... Hmm, what happened to all that cash I took out that morning?

But admiring buildings is free, so I took a few more snaps before hopping on a bus out to my friend's place in the nearby countryside.

Fabulousness Deco-ness

Creamy glazed tiles and frieze

Slightly scary Victorian heads...

Cozy alleyway

Art noveau glass

Blue and red

Finishing up the day with wine, newspaper... and the company of chickens!

Does anyone else know Nottingham?  Can you recommend any other shops there?  Did I foolishly miss out the best ones?  Would love to know for next time.

Spiffing Saltdean Lido

The seaside lido. What a wonderfully evocative thought! I have to confess that I've never actually swum in one in real life... But, in my mind, they conjure up all sorts of wonderful images of 1930s, interwar frolicking as Britain was taken over by a sort of outdoor, healthy, sporting lifestyle craze.

And the architecture! Wonderfully deco/moderne designs with simple lines, elegant curves and bright white finishing to reflect the sea and sun (literally), and the purity of outdoor pursuits (metaphorically).

But sadly, like the swimwear of the day, the lido became outmoded, and very few of these wonderful pieces of architecture remain, where once they were dotted all around the coast. Apparently there are now only 11 operational lidos from this Golden Era, with only 3 of those by the seaside. One of the last, and the most architecturally impressive, is Saltdean, just east of Brighton. Although its boating lake for paddle boats (how cool is that?!) has now been replaced with a community centre, the whole complex remains largely intact. Which is indeed a rare and wonderful thing.

There is currently a big campaign to safeguard the future of Saltdean Lido against the very real threat of residential development and to keep it in community use, in such a way that is sympathetic to this fabulous 1930s gem. It's also in the running to win some funding from a people's choice community project competition run by the Co-op. So rally round chums, and help:

Delights on the Way Home

To illustrate the point I was making yesterday, about all the wonderful architecture that can lift up your spirits if you just look around and take things in, I decided to snap a few shots as I walked home this evening after work.